Galapagos Uno

When our jet first set down on Baltra, we were excited at seeing the blue pastel hues of the ocean. 


Crossing the little strait to Santa Cruz in a small boat added to our sense of adventure, and even the stuffy bus ride the length of the island to the only real settlement, Puerto Ayora, did not diminish our sense of wonder.

Within an hour or so of arrival, we found a hostal and were out walking on the harbour-rimming concrete malecon, stepping around sleeping sea lions and marine iguanas and watching dozens and dozens of blue-footed boobies dive bombing for fish past big lumbering pelicans. 

cactus forest growing on lava

Later we made it out to the Charles Darwin Research Center to see more colours of iguanas and large land tortoises, and everywhere the vegetation provided new trees, flowers, cacti – a riot of colourful  life.

laid back sea lion

Perhaps the most abundant fauna on the island, however, is touristas gringonesis.  The common tourist can be identified by its generally sweaty and over-heated gait, the slightly uncomfortable stutter when confronted by full-frontal Spanish, and a puzzled expression as it feels its US dollars pulled remorselessly from its wallet by industrial suction.

While there is some significant effort made to sustain much of the indigenous fauna – with the exception of the food fishery, which is needed to sustain tourism – the shearing of tourists themselves continues apace and there is no activity that has not been monetized.  

He does pushups to show his love

Ingrid and I walked out to Tortuga Bay yesterday, allowed the equatorial sun to touch us briefly through the 40 SPF and crisp us where it touched.  It was a lovely 8 K walk and the perfect white sand stretched for over a kilometer.   

Today we met a guide who wanted $50 to show us the way, which helped to explain the guide we saw with 15 tourists in tow yesterday.   

When we snorkelled yesterday, visibility was limited to about two meters and we saw nothing.  However, today I overheard a guide earnestly informing a credulous tourist that she could expect to see sharks, rays and sea turtles if she rented a mask and snorkel. 

pre-cambrian face of marine iguana

a face maybe a mother could love

 I personally want to avoid being categorized as tourista gringonesis estupido. 

Tomorrow we will begin our search for a discounted cruise -- Sunday is apparently the day on which these become available as promoters try to fill the very last bunks with dollar-wielding touristas.