La Comida

Our quiet hostal in Plaza San Blas

I have long prided myself on being an equal-opportunity abuser of languages.  Here I have been struggling with Spanish and inflicting it on everyone possible, leaving in my wake many puzzled and confused cabbies, waitresses, clerks and hoteliers staring after a grinning half-wit Gringo.

and up and down

In a day it is a rare thing for Ingrid and I to speak English with anyone other than each other.  It is not reassuring that the rare Ecuadorian with whom we rub some English words proudly asserts that here in cosmopolitan Quito we will find many more English speakers than out in the hills.  This portends poorly for our forthcoming clarity of communication.

We have begun a little sightseeing.  I have struggled with the altitude: a weak stomach, coughing, a daily headache – nothing bad, but added to the hourly grind up and down steep cobblestone streets, it has been a disincentive.  Now I am feeling better and in order to actually *see* the sights, I decided to get some new eyeglasses.  I got a very thorough exam and prescription, but the unintended outcome is that we must stay in Quito for a few more days for them to be made up.  

Eating well in some foreign countries can be challenging.  I mention this because it is not a challenge we have met successfully here in Quito.

all students are in uniform

Food is cheap.  It is plentiful.  Both a set breakfast and lunch (desayuno and almuerzo) can be had for about $2 for the fixed meal.  For lunch, typically you will receive a glass of juice with three courses:

•  A salty soup
• A fried slab of meat (beef or chicken) laid on a mountain of dry rice with a sprinkling of chopped cabbage, and
•    Jello

This represents a great number of calories, each one carefully squeezed free of flavour.   It contains nourishment, and is good for you in the sense that cod liver oil is good for you.  The good will, the welcoming camaraderie of the folks here, the ready smiles and desire to make our visit positive and memorable – these are the things that add flavour to our days.  

Even Ammo would find variety in instrumentation.

Now all of this can be avoided by spending your time in "Gringolandia," a part of Mariscal Sucre dedicated entirely to importing the international experience to Ecudaor: bars, clubs, western food.  We have found these places everywhere -- in Istanbul it was the Pudding Shop, in Kabul it was Chicken Street, in Bangkok it is Khao San Road, in Malaka, Love Lane.  

So far I have remained strong, but every time I see a KFC or Subway or McDonalds I weaken a bit.  I think if I saw a Timmies, I would fold.

I think, however, that a most damning indictment of Ecuadorian food is that Cuban cuisine is catching on here.  

magnificent architecture abounds